LROCWA – From Gnammas to Queen Victoria Springs

When you gather a convoy of vehicles that ranges from Landrovers to a Troopy, a Jeep, a Prado and even an Amarok, you know you’re in for an adventure. 10 vehicles, 11 people and 12 days.

Led by our trip leader, Michelle, the Landrover Owners Club of WA set its sights on Queen Victoria Springs Nature Reserve, the legendary “oasis in the desert” that saved Ernest Giles and his team in September 1875 after suffering 17 days without water. For many in our group, it was their first time venturing that far east, and the anticipation was high. Our route was to be Merredin, north at Bodallin and onto the Evanston Rd, across to Menzies and up to Laverton, following Lake Rason and through Plumridge Lakes Nature Reserve, dropping into Queen Victoria Springs Nature Reserve, through the abandoned Cundeelee onto some exploring in the Emu Flats area and finally returning to Perth.

And so it begins….

After fuelling and lunch we left Merredin and steadily worked our way north and east, visiting gnamma holes, dams, rock outcrops and old wells. Some sites, like Johnson Soak or Marda Dam, were still impressive decades later, showing just how vital water was out here. First-time visitors were captivated by the ingenuity of these old dams and wells.

The driving through this whole trip offered everything from easy cruising, washouts, sandy stretches, and those tight, scratchy tracks that remind you the bush has teeth. Wildlife joined us too, tawny frogmouths, dingoes, kangaroos, emus and camels regularly seen. We were especially delighted to see so many bustards more than on any previous trip.  It was a lovely sight to see many wildflowers starting to show along the way.

Sights You Don’t Forget

Our first stop was the East Gnammas, followed by the Great Wall Gnammas (an unofficial name gifted by Michelle on her first visit). From there, the breakaways opened up sweeping views across to the Helena Aurora Ranges. Once we hit Laverton and refuelled and topped up supplies we then explored Mallee Hen Rocks where explorer Frank Hann once carved his initials. Michelle even promised a prize for the first to spot Frank Hann’s inscription. Sue’s still waiting on her banana!

Continuing on to Mt Luck and Point Bott, we soaked in the views from rocky mesas and paused to read the plaque telling us how Carnegie named Mt Luck after Angus Luck.

Pushing into Tiger Trap Gully next, but our trip leader got herself into a tight situation with a wash out, so we lost some time and had to return to the main track and give it a miss this time.  Next was the almost reaching the base of Toppin Hill.

Then it was on to the 7 Millers Shack, complete with its bush golf tee and a machine gun perched on the balcony.  Those who had not visited the shack before, were more than fascinated with this shack and all it’s at home comforts and memories left on the walls to peruse.

The adventure continued with lunch next to the dry expanse of Lake Rason, also our hottest day at 31 degrees.

Plumridge Lakes Nature Reserve came next, dotted with old survey and monitoring markers and occasionally a camel herd or two. Even the attempt to reach the Plumridge viewing platform added to the sense of adventure, whilst the lake might look bone dry, our trip leader didn’t believe it was hard enough for a troop of 10 cars to traverse twice, so we took in the view from a nearby breakaway. 

Eventually, we rolled into Queen Victoria Springs Nature reserve, starting with a visit to Streich Mound, the plaque standing out from a distance atop of the dune. Onto the infamous Queen Victoria Spring, this year the “spring” is more a clay pan, there was still enough moisture under the surface for Gavin to test his shovel with bets flying on how many digs until water seeped through (10 was the winning guess – by none other than our Trip Leader!).

Camps and Camaraderie

Evenings were a highlight. We shared firelight, roast dinner with apple crumble, a pasta night and as always, the traditional splash of port. The day’s events sparked endless conversations and laughter around the fire especially about the member caught napping mid-convoy! With so many “sniffy moments” along the way, our club’s official Sniffy award judge will have their work cut out. Each incident was, of course, thoroughly debated around the campfire every night. But it wasn’t all laughs, there were genuine moments of awe too. For some, it was their very first glimpse of a Western Australian desert, the thrill of cresting a sand dune, or finally seeing a sandalwood tree after only ever hearing about them. And for those early risers, there was the unforgettable sight of crystal-clear skies as Venus slowly overtook Jupiter on the morning horizon.

Each morning we emerged from icy swags or cosy tents to Brian’s fire already crackling, the unofficial camp alarm clock. Truth be told, most of us probably waited until he had it going before braving the cold and shuffling over to warm up.

In time, our trip leaders routine became second nature with everyone packed up, briefing complete and back onto the track by 8:15 sharp.

Heading Home

On the homeward leg, we ticked off a string of fascinating stops, from an unusual old tank system to the vast Anketell Dam and several other impressive station dams. We wandered around Babington Rockhole, before enjoying lunch at Dingo Rocks and dam, where the remains of a “romantic evening” a couch, fire pit, empty stubbies and oyster shells had been left behind on the outcrop. Unlike some of the more substantial diversion walls we’d seen on other outcrops, this one was a simpler construction and not as effective at holding and diverting water. Cardunia Soak & Dam next on our itinerary. Our trip leader hoped to approach the soak from the north, leading us down a winding, narrow track. But with the chainsaw work piling up and time against us, we backtracked to the railway line and entered from the south instead. We explored the area, amazed at the well-constructed dam, with its concrete pillars that would have once held up the roof, along with a walled dam, which was full to the brim, we also had a quick look at the abandoned quarry that supplied ballast to the railway line back in the day. After our last night under the stars, we headed into Kalgoorlie, visited the Super Pit, and even found a hidden shack tucked away off the Great Eastern Highway that our trip leader had visited back in June. Our final night was spent in Bruce Rock cabins, swapping camp ovens for pub meals. We shared a final camp kitchen breakfast before rolling back to Perth.”

Why We Do It?

Trips like this aren’t just about destinations. They’re about tackling the unexpected, exploring history, and building friendships around the campfire. Queen Victoria Springs trip gave us all of that in spades.

If you’re curious about joining us — whether you drive a Landrover or not — check out the Landrover Owners Club of WA at www.lrocwa.org.au, drop us a line at president@lrocwa.org.au, or send us a DM. Adventure is better shared.